A New report from animal welfare non-profit the Humane League, which examined supermarkets in 29 states in the US, found chicken breasts demonstrating ‘white striping’ in nearly every one. White striping is a muscle disease reportedly impacting 50-96 percent of fast growing chickens.
In the US more than nine billion broiler chickens are processed every year. With breast meat being so popular, birds have long been selectively bred for bigger breast muscle. Due to this selective breeding, chickens now reach market weight in 60 percent less time than broilers did 50 years ago. Their growth rate means they are slaughtered at only 47 days.
Two breeds – Cobb 500 and Ross 308 – make up 90 percent of broilers eaten in the US today. Studies have shown a correlation between the presence of white striping and increased growth rate, slaughter weight and high breast meat yield. The disease is a consequence of fat cells taking the place of protein cells. The fat cells are visible as white striations running parallel to the muscle fibres, predominantly seen on the surface of breast fillets. White striping can also appear on tenders and some thigh muscles.
Breeding for fast growth and increased breast size has profoundly altered muscle architecture and metabolism. According to the Humane League, white striping can appear in varying degrees and is not only a visual representation of the welfare issues the chicken suffered as a consequence of fast growth, but it also impacts the quality of the products. The nutritional value of the chicken meat reduces when white striping is present, with higher intramuscular fat content and increased collagen to total protein ratio.
Studies reportedly found a 224 percent fat content increase, a 9 percent protein decrease, and a 10 percent collagen increase when comparing normal breast muscle with those severely affected by white striping. The increase in collagen levels means that the protein in the chicken is less digestible and there is a deficiency in some essential amino acids. Fat calories are also impacted, increasing from 7 percent to 21 percent.
White-striped meat has a softer texture and lower water holding and binding capacity. During cooking it influences how the meat picks up a marinade. The meat retains less moisture. Overall, white striping means lower quality meat.
For the most part, I avoid buying chicken breasts at the supermarket, generally finding them bland. Similarly, I have long avoided chicken breast when on offer in restaurant dishes. Again, too often bland and too often dry. So, what to do?
I guess, subject to what you have in your wallet, purse, credit or debit account, try to select chicken meat from slower growing chickens. Personally, I favour pasture raised. Chances are that also means they’ll have led a better life in a better environment. You then have a greater chance of enjoying the taste experience you want and indeed deserve. Makes sense if you can afford it.